Evening settles slowly over Ulaanbaatar as we leave the city centre and make our way toward one of the small ger districts on the northern fringe. Here the city thins into quiet, open patches of land and the pace of life shifts into something far more grounded. Warm light glows from the doorway of a family ger, and as we arrive we are greeted with genuine Mongolian hospitality. This neighbourhood sits at the meeting point of tradition and modern life, offering a glimpse into how many families still live, blending old rhythms with the realities of the present day.
Inside, the air is warm with the scent of wood and home cooked dishes. The family welcomes us with tea and light conversation, and our travel expert helps guide the flow naturally. Tonight’s meal is simple, hearty and rooted in everyday Mongolian cooking. It may include steamed dumplings, hand cut noodles, seasonal vegetables or traditional dairy snacks prepared earlier in the day. There is laughter, curiosity and a gentle exchange of stories. This is not a staged encounter but a genuine family dinner, shaped by warmth and ease rather than formality. Through shared dishes and unhurried conversation, we gain a sense of the values that anchor Mongolian life: kinship, generosity and a close relationship with land and tradition.
After dinner we step back into the cool night and continue to the foothills where a secluded ceremonial site awaits. The atmosphere becomes immediately quieter, the city’s glow distant behind us. Here our travel expert explains the significance of the ritual we are about to witness. Shamanic practice in Mongolia is a living spiritual tradition, passed through specific lineages and shaped by ancestral guidance, nature and seasonal cycles. The ceremony we join is not a performance but a continuation of this lineage.
As darkness settles fully, a fire is lit at the centre of the clearing. A small bundle of juniper burns, its smoke used for a brief cleansing gesture before entering the ritual space. The drum sounds first, slow and rhythmic, echoing through the still night air. The shaman steps into the firelight, their garments marked by metal pieces and coloured threads that move gently as they shift. Each motion carries intention. Each chant is a call, an invitation to the spirits of ancestors, nature and the unseen world.
The ceremony builds gradually. Offerings of milk, vodka and juniper are placed with care on a low table. The fire crackles, sending sparks upward toward a clear sky. The drumbeat intensifies, then softens, shaping the flow of the ritual. Our travel expert quietly interprets moments when appropriate, but much of the experience is felt rather than explained, carried by atmosphere, sound and presence.
As the ritual closes, the shaman offers a final blessing, wishing harmony, health and protection. We leave the firelight slowly, carrying the stillness of the moment with us. The drive back to Ulaanbaatar feels quiet and reflective, the night sky stretching wide above the city’s soft glow.
